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Walls & structure

Stud wall (partition) cost calculator

A timber stud wall is a non-load-bearing partition that splits one room into two. It is a very achievable weekend project: timber, plasterboard and patience. The harder parts are finishing the plaster neatly and, if you want sockets or lights in it, the electrics.

Part DIY, part trade Some experience helps 2–4 days
Full DIY
£500
Smart Hybrid
£500
Full Trade
£1,430

Typical mid-range job, Midlands rates. Yours updates below.

Updated November 2026. Estimates based on typical UK prices.

Cost calculator

Price this job three ways

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The wall

The wall

Wall length (m)
Wall height (m)
Finish & electrics

Finish & electrics

Finish
Taped and filled is ready to paint and far easier to DIY.
Sockets or lights on the new wall
Quality & region

Quality & region

Materials quality
Better timber and a decent door

Anything unusual about the job?

We assume a standard straight, full-height partition. If yours is different (an odd shape, awkward access), describe it. It won't change the numbers, but it shows up as a note to raise with whoever quotes.

Smart Hybrid saves £930 against a full trade job.

Smart Hybrid

You take on what you can, a trade handles the rest.

£500

Materials
£496
Labour
£0
  • You take on: build the timber frame, insulate and board both sides, tape and fill the joints, hang the door, fit skirting.
  • Everything else stays with a trade.
  • Check the wall is not load-bearing, and that no pipes or cables run along its line, before you start.

Turn this into a plan

Get the order of work, who to book and a budget tracker, all editable.

Order of work for this job

A typical order. Always confirm timing with whoever you book, since some steps can overlap.

  1. 1

    First fix

    • Build the timber frameYou · ~1.2 days
  2. 2

    Plastering

    • Insulate and board both sidesYou · ~0.96 days
    • Tape and fill the jointsYou · ~0.69 days
  3. 3

    Fitting

    • Hang the doorYou · ~0.5 days
  4. 4

    Finishing touches

    • Fit skirtingYou · ~0.5 days
How we worked out the materials›
  • Stud timber£130
    10 studs at 0.4 m centres × 2.4 m + head and sole plates + noggins + door framing = 44.2 m ÷ 3.6 m lengths = 13 lengths
  • Plasterboard£77
    17.28 m² (both sides) + 10% ÷ 2.88 m² sheets = 7 sheets
  • Acoustic insulation£50
    8.64 m² of cavity
  • Internal door and lining£160
    1 × £160 = £160
  • Skirting board£39
    5.4 m (both sides, less the door) ÷ 2.4 m lengths = 3 lengths
  • Sundries£40
    Screws, jointing tape, filler, corner beads and fixings

Estimates only, based on regional averages. Always get 2 to 3 written quotes from local trades.

Smart Hybrid

£500

The price

What affects the cost?

  • 1

    Wall size

    Timber, plasterboard and insulation all scale with length and height.

  • 2

    Door opening

    A door needs a frame, a lintel and a new door set, and adds both cost and time.

  • 3

    Insulation

    Acoustic insulation inside the wall makes a big difference to sound and costs little.

  • 4

    Electrics

    Adding sockets or lights to the new wall needs an electrician for a safe, certified result.

  • 5

    Finishing

    Taping and skimming the plasterboard, plus skirting and paint, add time and cost.

Be honest with yourself

Can you do this yourself?

You can do

  • Marking out and building the timber frame
  • Fitting plasterboard and insulation
  • Taping and filling the joints
  • Fitting skirting, a door and painting

Leave to a pro

  • Skimming the plasterboard (or paint with a taped-and-filled finish)
  • Running cables and fitting sockets or lights
  • Any wall that is load-bearing or on an upper floor with unknown joists

The rules

Check the wall is not load-bearing and that no pipes or cables run where it will go. Building regulations may apply if it affects fire escape routes, or if it makes a habitable room with no window or ventilation.

DIY guide

How to build a stud wall, step by step

Tools you'll need

  • Saw (mitre or hand saw)
  • Spirit level and plumb line
  • Cordless drill and driver
  • Stud and cable detector
  • Plasterboard knife and screws
  • Tape measure

Materials

  • Timber (usually 75 × 50 mm for studs)
  • Plasterboard (typically 12.5 mm)
  • Acoustic mineral wool insulation
  • Plasterboard screws and fixings
  • Jointing tape, filler and skim
  • Door lining set and skirting
  1. 1

    Plan the position and check what is behind

    ~0.5 days

    Mark the wall line on the floor and ceiling. Check for pipes and cables, and find which way the ceiling joists run, as that decides how you fix the top plate.

    Do not build on a wall line that has pipes or cables routed through it.

  2. 2

    Fix the top and bottom plates

    ~0.5 days

    Cut two lengths of timber (head plate and sole plate). Fix the head plate to the ceiling joists or add noggins between them, then use a plumb line to transfer the position to the floor and fix the sole plate.

    Tip: A plumb line from the ceiling plate is the easy way to get the floor plate exactly above it.

  3. 3

    Cut and fit the vertical studs

    ~0.5 days

    Measure the gap between plates and cut studs to fit snugly. Fix them at 400 mm centres by skew-screwing top and bottom, checking each is plumb.

  4. 4

    Frame the door opening

    ~0.5 days

    Fit two full-height studs each side of the opening, and a horizontal lintel above the door height. Keep the opening square.

  5. 5

    Add noggins and run cables

    ~0.5 days

    Fit horizontal noggins between the studs for strength and for fixing heavy items later. Have your electrician run cables and back boxes now, before the board goes on.

  6. 6

    Insulate the cavity

    ~0.25 days

    Push acoustic mineral wool between the studs so it fills the gap without being squashed. It reduces noise a lot.

  7. 7

    Board one side, then the other

    ~1 day

    Cut plasterboard to fit and screw it to the studs, with screws about 150mm apart and joins landing on a stud. Board the second side after cables and insulation are done.

  8. 8

    Tape, fill and finish

    ~1.5 days

    Tape joints, fill screw heads, sand smooth, and either skim or paint over a taped finish. Fit the door lining, hang the door, fit skirting, and paint.

Learn from others

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Not checking for pipes and cables in the wall position
  • Building on a load-bearing wall line
  • Leaving no noggins for fixing shelves or radiators later
  • Boarding the second side before the electrics are checked
  • Forgetting insulation, so the wall is noisy

Frequently asked questions

How much does it cost to build a stud wall?

For a typical 3.6 m wall with a door, insulation and a taped finish, expect from around £500 doing the carpentry yourself to £1,430 with a carpenter. Skimming the finish, extra electrics and a more expensive door push it up.

Do I need planning permission or building regulations for a stud wall?

Planning permission is not normally needed for an internal partition. Building regulations can apply if the wall affects a fire escape route, blocks light or ventilation to a habitable room, or involves electrics. Check with your local building control if you are unsure.

How far apart should the studs be?

Studs are normally set at 400 mm centres for standard 12.5 mm plasterboard, with horizontal noggins between them for strength and to give you something to fix shelves and radiators to later.

Can I build a stud wall myself?

Yes. A timber stud wall is a very achievable DIY project if you can measure, cut accurately and use a drill. The skimmed finish is the hard part, so many people tape and fill the joints instead, and any sockets or lights should be fitted by a registered electrician.

Is a stud wall soundproof?

Not on its own. Filling the cavity with acoustic mineral wool makes a big difference for little cost, and a solid door and sealed gaps help too. For real soundproofing, use two layers of board.

Ready to plan it?

Add this job to your renovation plan to get the order of work, who to book and a budget you can track.

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