Garden & outdoors
Fence panel cost calculator
A garden fence is one of the best weekend DIY jobs: no notifiable work, simple tools, and a result you can see straight away. Get the posts right and the rest is straightforward.
- Full DIY
- £650
- Smart Hybrid
- £650
- Full Trade
- £1,130
Typical mid-range job, Midlands rates. Yours updates below.
Updated November 2026. Estimates based on typical UK prices.
Cost calculator
Price this job three ways
Answer a few questions and watch the numbers move. Nothing is saved or sent anywhere.
Smart Hybrid saves £480 against a full trade job.
Smart Hybrid
You take on what you can, a trade handles the rest.
£650
- Materials
- £592
- Labour
- £0
- Extras
- £60
- You take on: remove old fence, dig, concrete posts and fit panels.
- Everything else stays with a trade.
Turn this into a plan
Get the order of work, who to book and a budget tracker, all editable.
Order of work for this job
A typical order. Always confirm timing with whoever you book, since some steps can overlap.
- 1
Strip out
- Remove old fenceYou · ~0.75 days
- 2
Fitting
- Dig, concrete posts and fit panelsYou · ~1.5 days
How we worked out the materials›
- Fence panels£27010 m of run ÷ 1.83 m per panel = 6 panels
- Fence posts£1266 panels + 1 end post = 7 posts
- Post concrete£1127 posts × 2 bags per hole = 14 bags
- Gravel boards£841 per panel bay × 6 panels
Estimates only, based on regional averages. Always get 2 to 3 written quotes from local trades.
The price
What affects the cost?
- 1
Length of the run
Panels, posts and gravel boards all scale with the length of your fence.
- 2
Panel style and height
Overlap panels are cheapest. Featheredge and closeboard panels cost more and last longer.
- 3
Post type
Concrete posts last far longer than timber, and cost more.
- 4
Ground conditions
Slopes, rock and tree roots slow the digging and may need stepped panels.
- 5
Removing the old fence
Taking down and disposing of old panels and posts adds time and waste.
Be honest with yourself
Can you do this yourself?
You can do
- The whole job, ideally with a helper
- Digging post holes and setting posts
- Hanging panels and fitting gravel boards
- Treating or staining timber
Leave to a pro
- Very long or steep runs
- Fences against a public highway or listed building boundary
- Disputed boundaries (talk to your neighbour and check deeds first)
The rules
You generally do not need planning permission for a fence up to 2 m high in a back garden, or 1 m next to a road. Check your property deeds, as you may have restrictions. Make sure you know which boundaries you own, and talk to your neighbour first.
DIY guide
How to put up a fence, step by step
Tools you'll need
- Post hole digger or spade and crowbar
- Spirit level and string line
- Cordless drill and driver
- Hammer and nails or screws
- Wheelbarrow and a bucket
- Post level
Materials
- Fence panels
- Posts (timber or concrete)
- Gravel boards
- Post-mix concrete
- Fixings (clips, nails or screws)
- Post caps and preservative
- 1
Check the boundary and the rules
~0.5 daysConfirm who owns the boundary from your deeds, tell your neighbour, and check the height limits. Call a utility locator service or check plans before digging.
- 2
Mark out the line and post positions
~0.5 daysRun a taut string line along the fence line. Mark post positions about 1.83m apart (centre to centre), as standard panels are 6 ft wide, and adjust the spacing so panels fit evenly.
Tip: Lay the panels on the ground along the line first to check spacing before you dig a single hole.
- 3
Remove the old fence
~1 dayCut or lever out old panels and dig out old posts, including the concrete. Dispose of the waste responsibly.
- 4
Dig the post holes
~0.5 daysDig holes at least 600mm deep, or about a third of the post height above ground (deeper in soft ground), and wide enough for 150mm of concrete around the post.
- 5
Set the end posts first
~1 daySet a post at each end, brace it plumb with timber and a level, and pour post-mix concrete. Then set the intermediate posts to the string line.
Wait 24–48 hours for the concrete to cure before hanging panels or leaning on the posts.
- 6
Fit gravel boards
~0.5 daysFit a gravel board between posts at ground level to keep the bottom of the panels dry. A treated or concrete board will outlast timber.
- 7
Hang the panels
~1 dayLift each panel into place between posts, resting it on the gravel board, and fix with clips, screws or nails. Check each is level. Step the panels down on a slope instead of racking them.
- 8
Cap, treat and clear up
~0.5 daysFit post caps to keep water out, treat any cut timber with preservative, and remove the string line and rubbish.
Learn from others
Common mistakes to avoid
- Setting posts too shallow so the fence leans or blows over
- Hanging panels before the concrete has set
- Not checking the boundary and upsetting a neighbour
- Skipping gravel boards so panels rot at the base
- Digging without checking for pipes and cables
Frequently asked questions
How much does it cost to put up a garden fence?
For a typical 10 m run with mid-range featheredge panels, gravel boards and the old fence removed, expect from around £650 doing it yourself to £1,130 with a contractor. Fencing is one of the most DIY-friendly jobs going — no notifiable work, just digging and levelling.
How much does a fence panel cost?
Mid-range featheredge panels cost around £45 each. Budget overlap panels are cheaper but shorter-lived; premium closeboard panels cost more and last longest.
How many fence panels do I need?
Standard UK panels are 1.83 m (6 ft) wide, so divide your total fence run in metres by 1.83 and round up. You’ll need one more post than panels, since each panel sits between two posts.
Can I put up a fence myself?
Yes, almost always — fencing has no notifiable work or specialist trade requirement. The main things to get right are digging post holes deep enough (at least 600mm, more for tall panels) and letting the concrete cure before hanging panels.
Ready to plan it?
Add this job to your renovation plan to get the order of work, who to book and a budget you can track.